Glimpses of the Kingdom

This is the second week of Advent, the season of waiting for Christ to come to us in the midst of our darkness. Having spent the last several years getting to know people in poverty and on the margins of society, I am pretty much constantly aware of that darkness, and it is sometimes easy to lose sight of the light altogether. That’s why I want to hold onto any glimpses I catch of the kingdom slowly but surely breaking in, and I want to share a few of them here.

I recently completed a three-month volunteer training with Battered Women’s Support Services here in Vancouver, where my fellow trainees were a group of brave women with beautiful, compassionate hearts. Most of those women don’t identify as people of faith, but I felt the presence of God in the midst of the safe and loving community we built together. That strong sense of community was absolutely vital during the twelve intense weeks we spent staring injustice and violence in the face and sharing some very raw pieces of our own stories.  Exploring the ugliness of the world with a bunch of people who are committed to doing something about it helps keep my hope alive, and reminds me that there is strength in our shared vulnerability as human beings.

I’ve now begun fielding calls on the crisis line. From police to hospitals to courts, it’s been sobering to realize how often the systems that have been set up to protect the vulnerable actually let people slip through the cracks–or worse, further traumatize and isolate them. Sometimes, people struggling with mental health issues are given criminal records instead of help. Sometimes women are arrested for defending themselves against abusive partners while the men who batter them go free. I know this now, not only through statistics or reading articles or listening to experts talk about it, but from speaking to these women on the phone.  All too often, factors such as race, income level, and immigration status determine whether or not a woman will get the help she needs.

Volunteering with BWSS has been a steep learning curve, and the stories of violence and abuse that I have been hearing over the phone are heartbreaking. Yet I also feel an overwhelming sense of gratitude for the chance to support these brave, resilient women in resisting violence and pursuing lives of dignity and safety.  I am humbled by their tenacity in working against staggering odds to reclaim their own identities and the lives and to heal from trauma.

In other news, I’ve just landed my first paid job in Canada! Yesterday, I accepted a position working directly with refugee claimants: people who have fled their countries of origin because of violence or persecution based on their race, religion, nationality, political opinions or membership in a particular social group. In contrast to privately-sponsored or government-assisted refugees, refugee claimants undertake their dangerous journey without knowing whether or not they will be granted asylum when they reach their destination. They often face detention upon arrival, and the months-long refugee claims process that follows can be a stressful and scary time while claimants struggle to navigate an unfamiliar system, gather evidence for their case, and wait for their fate to be decided by the powers that be.

My job will bring me into contact with families at all stages of this process, but my main responsibility will be to support those whose refugee claims have recently been approved, journeying alongside them as they begin the process of integrating into the local community and helping them to find employment.

I start tomorrow, and I can’t wait. In the face of all the violence and hateful rhetoric lately, I am beyond thrilled to be able to extend the welcome of Christ to refugee claimants from around the world—Muslim and otherwise—who have come to this country seeking safety. I look forward to all of the beautiful people I will meet, and to all the ways they are sure to challenge and humble me and force me to grow, causing me to see more (and differently) than I did before.

I give thanks for every step a woman takes towards freedom and safety. I give thanks for every refugee’s safe arrival, and every successful application for asylum.  I celebrate every small victory for justice in our world, and I recognize Christ’s coming in our midst. Still, I wait impatiently in the dark, willing these pin-prick stars to turn into daylight.

God, be born in our hearts. In our fractured world, let us be the midwives of goodness and truth coming into being.

Choosing Love Over Fear When It Comes to the Refugee Crisis

Palestinian refugees in Damascus at Yarmouk camp, 2014

Yesterday I wrote a blog for the Huffington Post about what it means to respond as Christians to the plight of Syrian refugees.

This week, I’ve continued to read news stories about the refugee crisis–a crisis which had been unfolding for quite sometime before the Syrian civil war produced enough refugees and enough shocking images at one time to awaken our collective conscience. I attended a town hall meeting here in Vancouver last Tuesday where I learned that despite that bloody civil war and the expanding empire of ISIL, the vast majority of the world’s refugees still come from Africa rather than the  Middle East. At Kinbrace, I’ve also spent time talking with refugees and refugee claimants from Ethiopia, Nepal, Iran, Afghanistan, and other countries, and their stories remind me that even in places that don’t make the headlines, millions of people fear for their lives every day because of oppressive government regimes and armed conflict.

These stories fill me with sadness, but also with frustration and anger over the way that many of us in the West have allowed fear to prevent us from extending compassion to those who are in urgent need of our help. Hungary has now closed its borders to Syrians fleeing the conflict, and the government is arresting those who deem an illegal crossing their best bet for survival. Refugees continue to drown in the Mediterranean as “Fortress Europe” deliberately refuses to help as a matter of official policy, in order to deter further immigration. But those who are desperate enough to risk the lives of themselves and their children on the rag-tag dinghies of human smugglers will not be deterred from making these deadly voyages, because they clearly have no choice. These journeys are their last hope: either they risk losing their lives, or lose them for sure by staying where they are.

Many in Europe are afraid that the influx of Muslims will threaten the “Christian identity” of Europe, but as Giles Fraser so starkly pointed out in an article for the Guardian newspaper on September 4, the Christian identity of Europe is threatened not by Muslims, but by Christian politicians who refuse to live out the Biblical mandate to welcome the stranger and care for the oppressed.

And what about North America? Canada welcomed 19,233 government assisted refugees in 1980, but that number has plummeted to just 6,900 in 2015. Furthermore, despite the government’s promise to accept 10,000 Syrian refugees over 3 years, Canada has settled just over 1,000 Syrians so far. Meanwhile, the United States has taken in fewer than 1,000. So far, we North Americans haven’t shown ourselves to be any more hospitable than Europe.

Another security concern that has been raised is the possibility of terrorists slipping in amongst the flood of legitimate refugees seeking asylum. Security experts have already addressed the unlikelihood of this happening. Yet few people have talked about the way that welcoming refugees from Muslim countries actually offers our nations an opportunity to address the root causes of terrorism: poverty, lack of opportunity, traumatization and loss of loved ones in conflict zones, and hatred of the West due to foreign policy and military interventions which negatively impact Muslim civilians in the Middle East. This is a chance to show genuine love and concern to our Muslim neighbors, and to provide a secure future for exactly the kind of children who might otherwise be at risk for radicalization by opportunistic terrorist organizations who prey upon those who are impoverished and discontented.

As citizens of a world increasingly interconnected by economic ties, military involvement, and technology, the refugee crisis is not some distant issue from which we can pretend to be entirely separate. The current situation forces us to confront our political and military contribution to the crisis, and challenges those of us who follow Jesus to live out some of the core tenets of our faith.

Lessons from Ramazan

arabic script

 

Today I have the chance to share some of the things I learned from my Muslim neighbors in India about life and faith in a guest post for the Missio Alliance blog. Writing about the experience of observing Ramazan and celebrating Eid with my friends in the slum brings back memories of breathtakingly difficult and beautiful times spent with wonderful people. I am so thankful for everything they have taught me, and for the ways that their friendship continues to shape my journey with Jesus.  Head over to MissioAlliance.org to read the post!

A new beginning (and a poem from the ashes)

We’ve been in Canada for a month now. In some ways, it feels that we’ve been here much longer: we have been the eager recipients of hospitality in a loving community that has sheltered us and softened our landing in this new country. Even as new arrivals, we have shared most meals with friends, entered into daily and weekly rhythms of prayer and worship with others, played with children, and felt at home. It’s hard to overstate the importance of this as we begin to get our feet under us again. Just sharing the domestic sphere of cooking, cleaning, and common space with others brings a sense of belonging that is rare to find so quickly when one shows up in a new city without an existing network of relationships, or even a job. It’s ironic to think that we’ve moved into a “joint family” living situation only after leaving India, where we were surrounded by people who found it strange for the two of us to be living “alone”!

This community is centered around hospitality. When we briefly passed through this community several years ago, we were inspired to participate in extending this invitation of hospitality to neighbors who often brought their struggles with mental illness, addiction, prostitution, homelessness, or poverty into the house. Some of them are refugees and migrants. Others have been internally displaced within their own culture and society.

This time, however, we’ve returned to the community as strangers and foreigners in need of hospitality ourselves. This time, we feel most inspired by the hospitality that has been extended to us, from community members and neighbors alike. Community dinners at our house bring the whole diverse and quirky lot of us together, and it can be quite the adventure. The lines are blurred between who is hosting and who is being hosted; who is extending grace and who is receiving it. Several people from the neighborhood are long-time friends of the community who know what it’s like to live on the streets or to fight through an addiction, and they have become important partners in extending hospitality to others—they are some of the best cooks we have, they share their insight and their stories with us, and they offer compassionate, listening ears to newcomers.

***

We have yet to really process what it means to have uprooted ourselves from the slum in India and moved here. It will take time to unpack that experience; even our last day in the slum was stuffed full of the roller coaster of emotions I had felt throughout the time I lived there: waves of sadness, anger, tenderness, frustration, laughter, happiness, and grief. I felt exhausted by everyone’s desire to be with us as much as possible in those last hours. I felt overwhelmed by the intensity of their need. I felt humbled, too, by the gifts we received: one last, home cooked meal with our Indian family; hugs and kisses on the cheek from the little children who have become like nieces and nephews to us; a painting from my “little sister.”

“Just think,” our former landlady had told us earlier that week, “when you first arrived here, no one even wanted to offer you a room, because they didn’t know you. Now there’s not a single person in this neighborhood who isn’t sad you’re leaving.”

Those words express the heart and soul of what our time in India meant. By the time we actually walked out of the community, it felt like we were attending our own funeral. Thirty or forty people escorted us up to the main road in a somber procession and blocked traffic as they crowded around to hug us, say their final goodbyes, and flag down an auto rickshaw for us. Many people were sobbing openly. So were we, by the time we drove away. I feel many things about leaving, but in that moment the only thing I felt was immeasurable loss.

Sometimes these experiences elude the grasp of everyday language. They can’t find full expression in words of any kind, but poetry more closely approximates their meaning. I wrote some poetry a few days before our departure:

On the occasion of my leaving
this battlefield and second home,
strewn with unfulfilled hopes, half-discovered mysteries,
love, laughter, triumph, and sorrow,
a poem:

For the children locked up in dark rooms,
and the ones singing film songs, flying kites, playing marbles in the alleyway;

For the parents screaming at their children,
and for the mothers tenderly nursing infants; the proud fathers with toddlers in their arms;

For the women with broken bangles and bruised eyes,
for the grown-up boys who beat them;

For the men earning survival with their sweat and exhaustion,
and for the ones drowning in a malaise of alcohol and ganja,

For the feuds and fights and angry words,
reverberating off the narrow brick walls of the alleyways, and lodging in wounded hearts;

For the communal prayers also, and the generosity of neighbors:
meals for widows, and foreigners, and orphans;

For all the beauty and pain I have seen,
For the cruelty and the love.
Both have taken my breath away, in turns.

No victims here, and no heroes;
No one evil and no one righteous
(myself included)
All facets of the human heart laid bare
In these dusty alleyways and close quarters

Where there are no secrets
(except the ones we keep from ourselves),
And no illusions
(besides the ones in our own minds).

For all of us:
May we find peace
Instead of everything else we go in search of,
To fill the space where love alone belongs.

Back to the Land

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A baby water buffalo with full-grown ears!

 

This past week we had the privilege of visiting A.’s Indian colleague and his family in their village. This colleague is a very thoughtful community worker with a heart for the poor and a knack for building relationships and disarming people with his gentle demeanor. It’s not unusual for him to begin his workday in the wee hours of the morning helping his father to harvest a field of their crops before commuting into the city to meet up with A. for work, so our friend’s life is still very much rooted in the village and it was nice to see more of that side of his life. It was nice to get away from the noise and the crowds of the city and reconnect with nature again. We slept on the roof under the stars, enjoyed seeing lots of beautiful birds (and even a wild fox!), and explored the fields and dirt roads with our friend.

It was amazing to see how in tune the villagers are to nature, and how knowledgeable and creative they are about making use of the natural world. Our first morning there, he taught us how to harvest our toothbrushes and toothpaste directly from the tree: we broke off small twigs from a neem tree and used the frayed ends to scrub our teeth, just like the locals. We have seen neighbors doing this before, even in the city, but had never tried it ourselves. Surprisingly, this neem stick method really seemed to get the job done! But there’s a reason you’ve never seen neem-flavored toothpaste in stores—it’s incredibly bitter.

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Our ideal homestead.

 

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The ornately carved wooden doorway of our friend’s ancestral home. The house is over one hundred years old!

 

People were very laid-back and friendly. Our host addressed everyone we met as “Uncle” or “Grandma” or some other relative. Many of them are his blood relatives, but even the ones who aren’t have grown up alongside him or parented him nearly as much as they have their own children. When we visited his ancestral house, three of his uncles had tea with us and showed us around the inside courtyard. We were pleasantly surprised by how normally everyone treated us during our stay, because as foreigners we often attract a lot of attention. We eventually realized that most of the people we met didn’t know that we were foreigners!
These beautiful homes are made from mud, bamboo, and the dried branches of lentil bushes. They belong to families of so-called Dalits, or “Untouchables.” In the past, this part of the village probably would have been quite segregated from the rest of the community, and our host told us that even today the Dalits in his village remain landless and therefore earn their income by working in other people’s fields.

The injustice rooted in traditional customs around caste and gender makes up the shadow side of this otherwise peaceful, agrarian community. Our host says he knows of several “honor killings” that have been carried out in the village– murders of either young women or couples who have violated the sexual norms of the community or have chosen a relationship which their families disapproved of.

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A field of sunflowers being grown to sell.

 

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Wells and hand pumps like this one supply water to the village.

 

Our friend says that over the past 10-15 years, the climate of the area has been slowly changing. Right now, the fields are already unusually dry and he fears that monsoon may come late this year. Such fluctuations in weather can be disastrous for subsistence farmers like our friend’s family and neighbors who depend completely on the seasons and the land for their survival. Those who can no longer make ends meet on the farm will eventually end up living in slums in the city, so the problems of rural and urban India are deeply interconnected.
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The puri-making circle: these aunties are busily working away to make enough fried bread for the dozens of guests who are about to descend on the house!

 

The main events of our visit were related to the upcoming wedding of our friend’s younger brother: a puja, or worship ceremony, followed by the Tilak, another ritual (between the groom and the brother of the bride) during which the bride’s family brings gifts to the groom’s family, who then hosts them for a feast in which both extended families celebrate the impending marriage.
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The Brahmin priest, or Pandit, presides over the puja for the groom.

 

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The groom’s parents (foreground) and the pandit (center) make preparations before the Tilak.

 

The ceremonies were interesting to watch, but having the house crowded with more than two-hundred guests made the second day significantly less restful than the first! In the villages, there is only electricity for a few hours each day–much worse than the power cuts we get in the slum. In this case, those hours were approximately 9 p.m.-6 a.m., with a few sporadic moments throughout the day. Temperatures were well above 100 degrees fahrenheit, but body heat certainly pushed them even higher inside the house!

It was fascinating to experience a slice of rural Indian life. The village is really the heart of the city, since nearly everyone is a recent migrant from the countryside. Seeing the rhythms of family and work life in the village sheds light on our neighbors’ approach to life in the slum, and gives us a greater appreciation for their previous life experiences. However, meeting so many people and having no control over when we eat, sleep, or do anything else over an extended period of time can also be a stressful experience, so we were just as thankful to return to the familiarity of the city afterward!

A routine de-stoning

I had first learned about gallstones in China. When my husband and I showed up to teach English at an obscure college in Jiangxi province, we were promptly taken to an assembly line-style clinic for an extremely comprehensive round of medical examinations. I guess the school figured there was no point in going to the trouble of importing English teachers all the way from America if they were just going to get sick and die on them before the end of the school year. So, our boss accompanied us into each room along the corridor: make a fist for the blood test, pull up your shirt for the EKG, lay on your side for the ultrasound. Her presence was a bit awkward, but her limited English was helpful since no one else at the clinic spoke any, and our Chinese wasn’t good enough yet to understand most of what was happening. When it came to the ultrasound, the nurse rolled the jellied sensor around on my side and then began pointing as the fuzzy image on the screen with apparent concern. She was pointing out the problem to my boss of course, not to me.

“What is it?” I asked. “What is she saying?” My boss furrowed her brow. “Uh… it is a kind of disease. I am not sure how to say in English.” Fear began to gnaw open a space through my stomach, but that didn’t show up on the screen. “Well, what kind of disease?” I asked again. My boss was thinking. “Mmmm… my father has this kind of disease. He is very elderly. I will look up the words and tell you later. Maybe tomorrow.” Maybe tomorrow? We moved onto the next test in the next room, and I worried over whatever terrible thing the nurse thought she had found in my abdomen until the next day when my pestering texts and phone calls finally elicited a response from my boss: gallstones.

That didn’t seem too scary. I left it alone, not convinced that there was any truth behind it anyway. What could they really tell from such a scrambled, nondescript image? ThThen a few months ago I was under the jellied ultrasound wand again, here in India, investigating what seems now to be completely unrelated stomach pain. “Gallstones,” the Indian doctor told me in English. This time he pointed them out to me on the crystal clear image enlarged on the screen in front of me. No getting out of it this time.

I began telling my neighbors about the upcoming operation. Most of them were really worried about it, since nearly everyone knows someone who’s died in hospital. There’s very little understanding of anatomy or healthcare, so the reasons why some operations work and others don’t remain a mystery. Some people wanted to take me to see their doctor and get a second opinion. Others wanted to stay at the hospital with me. “Your husband can just stay home and I’ll be with you every minute while you’re there!” one friend told me. The most restful recovery my Indian friends can imagine is one surrounded by a great cloud of concerned friends and relatives, so the idea of my husband and I “alone” in the hospital pained them. Someone else confidently told me that there was no need for surgery when eating enough papaya would be sufficient to get rid of the stones.

An old grandmother I know took me to meet her son, who promptly took a matchbox from off the shelf and showed me the kidney stone he passed a few months ago. What’s the appropriate response when a stranger shows you the lump of sandstone that he passed through his body? I raised my eyebrows with an appreciative, “Oh,” and inquired about the treatment that had produced this unique keepsake.

Another family had a grandmother visiting from the village who I had never met before. When I told them about the upcoming surgery, she related the story of her sister-in-law’s sister’s somebody who had gotten surgery (though it was unclear by the end exactly what kind of surgery it had been). “She didn’t survive that,” the grandmother concluded with sagely detachment, staring ahead of her. “Nope, she’s dead.” I felt like laughing, but the family seemed embarrassed by their relative’s unsettling anecdote. Her daughter began explaining to the woman what a good friend I was and how long they had known me. Her expression didn’t change, but the grandmother seemed to take the hint. “Pray to God,” she said, turning to me. “If He wills it, all will go well.”

The morning of the surgery, I was feeling a bit nervous in spite of the rational knowledge that this was a fairly safe procedure. A man with a folder in his hand arrived in the waiting room. “Aiye,” he said, and turned to leave. “Come.” We followed. He took us upstairs to the general ward, where two nurses were tasked with “helping” me change clothes: one of them dressed me like an invalid doll, and the other observed. A little while later, another group of nurses and doctors came in to give various shots and start an IV of antibiotics and then glucose. We could communicate well enough in Hindi, but there was rarely explanation or warning of what was coming beforehand. We read books and listened to the sounds of Indian music videos and soap operas wafting through the dividing curtain between my bed and the rest of the ward until eventually, another person appeared at the foot of my bed: “Aiye.” I followed her downstairs, took off my shoes outside of a siding door, walked barefoot into the operating room, and laid down on the table, awake. Watching the surgeons make their final preparations next to me was unnerving. I felt as though the operation was going to start at any moment with me still lying there fully conscious! The anesthesiologist noticed my agitation and asked why I was so nervous. I explained that in my country, the patient never sees the inside of the operating theater because they’re already out cold by that point. He laughed and assured me that I “wouldn’t know anything” while the surgery was going on. I had the irrational fear that the drug might not be able to knock me out of such a hyper-vigilant state, but no sooner had I watched the syringe empty into my arm than my eyes went out of focus and I fell asleep wondering how long it would take to fall asleep.

For some reason, I only spoke in Hindi while I was coming off the anesthesia, even in response to A.’s questions in English. While I was still coming to, the doctor called A. into another room where my gallbladder was sitting in a bowl. The doctor sliced it open in front of him, dug out six gallstones, and handed them to him in a plastic bag.

After a day of painful, nauseous recovery and a night in the ward, we headed back to the slum. I was still feeling too weak to do much of anything, but our neighbors took such good care of us. One family made lunch for us, and after coming to visit in the afternoon, decided to cater our dinner as well. When we tried to protest, the mother put on her stern face and waved away our concerns with her hand as she started resolutely down the stairs to go home and begin cooking. The next day, our landlady downstairs graciously made roti for us since my abs still weren’t up to kneading the flour. “Why shouldn’t I do it? We all live in one house!” she said. We have felt very loved by all the help and the stream of visitors.

And we had joked about what to do with the gallstones, but now it’s become obvious that the real purpose was for show-and-tell. After making their inquiries after my health and dispensing advice on what I should avoid eating or doing while I recovered, people always analyzed the stones in the plastic bag, or if we had forgotten to offer, they would ask to see them. Maybe I need to find a matchbox for them.

 

Ramazan and Eid

          We decided to try the fast that first day of Ramazan, just to see what it was like for our neighbors. We set our alarms to wake up at 2:45 am, early enough to make breakfast and eat before the first azan, or call to prayer, reverberates through the the pre-dawn darkness and everyone stops eating or drinking anything for the next 16 hours—until the fourth call to prayer ends the fast a little after 7 pm. It was difficult to do, especially in such hot, muggy weather. We’re used to feeling hungry from time to time, but the most intense thing was the thirst. I was amazed by the way that our neighbors—and especially the women—go about their same routine of housework all day without food or water: scrubbing their family’s clothes, making food for small children or working men in their household who aren’t fasting, hauling water for cooking, bathing, and laundry, walking out in the sun to buy vegetables at the market.

Then, in the early afternoon, preparations begin for aftar (or iftar), the fast-breaking snacks that everyone eats in the evening before going to pray namaz and later having dinner. I spent hours at my friend’s house learning how to make the chana (spicy chickpeas), pakori (onions deep-fried in spicy chickpea flour), tamarind chutney, papar (deep-fried potato chips), and sarbat (lemonade) that people eat at iftar, along with fruit and dates and other tasty snacks. That evening, another family invited us to come over and break the fast with them. The mother of the family waited patiently for the azan, lost in silent prayer, while the younger children restlessly awaited the voice over the loudspeaker that would signal it was time to dig in.  The call rose from the nearest minaret in melodic Arabic, “God is great…” and along with the thousands of others sitting together in their own houses throughout the community, we broke our fast with a date, then lemonade, fruit, and all the deep-fried goodness on the plates in front of us.

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aftar (“iftar” in Arabic), fast-breaking food

          We haven’t fasted since that first day, but we have continued to be welcomed into the celebration of aftar with our neighbors. We’ve tried our hand at making a few pakori ourselves, and we’ve run around delivering fruit and pakori to different families as they send plates of their homemade aftar to our house.

One night, we were invited to the home of a wealthy Muslim lawyer who lives nearby our slum and invites anyone who wants to come—mostly poor people from our community—to eat aftar, biryani, and sweets at his house. Despite our not having fasted and our complete ignorance of how to pray namaz, we were welcomed to eat, to watch, and to talk. That open feast for the poor reminded us a bit of the kind of party Jesus describes in Luke 14:12-14.  Right after that grand feast, we had the experience of breaking the fast in a more humble setting with friends of ours who hadn’t made aftar most nights at all because of the expense. We chipped in supplies and they did most of the cooking, teaching me how to make even more kinds of ramazan treats. I love the patience and the devotion to God, the sacrificial hospitality, and the vigor of celebration that I saw in the way my neighbors observe Ramazan.

          After a full month of fasting came three days of celebration: Eid. In preparation, everyone cleaned their homes from floor to ceiling, painted their houses in bold colors, and decorated with shiny paper with designs cut into it. The women stayed up all night preparing simai (a sugary dessert), pulki (a spicy yogurt curry), and mattar (peas—also spicy), and on that first day everyone dons expensive new clothes and goes out visiting one another, dressed to the hilt. Andy and I ate in fourteen different homes that first day alone, which made us feel very included and happy—but also VERY full, and a bit sick from the ridiculous blood sugar spike that so many servings of simai brought on!
On the second day, we participated in another Eid tradition: big family outings to different parks and attractions around the city. We went with a large family to the zoo, and since one of the sons in the family makes his living as an auto rickshaw driver, all 13 of us piled into his auto for the half-hour trip!  The zoo was, well, a zoo—that’s really the best way to describe the atmosphere of noisy crowds packed in everywhere.  I think at least a hundred other people from our slum must have been there; we ran into people we knew everywhere. It was a lot of fun to go around to all of the different exhibits with these incredibly excited kids (and excited parents) who had never been to a zoo in their lives and were fascinated by each new creature.
          Eid is one of the few times that families in our community get a day off to do something fun together, and the zoo is one of the few fun places in the city that is cheap enough for almost anyone to afford, so we weren’t really all that surprised to see how crowded it was. We were a bit taken aback, though, to see how a giant playground inside the zoo drew even bigger crowds than the animal exhibits—and by the fact that most of the people making use of the equipment were teenage and adult men!
          The third day of Eid was thankfully a bit more low-key, although house-to-house visiting and simai consumption continued. We’re glad to have been able to share another important cultural experience with our friends here, but also tired enough to be happy that all the celebration is over!

The generosity of the poor: friendship at the margins

          We’ve now spent just over a week in our new community, but it feels like we have been there much longer.  For the first few days, we had a constant stream of children and adults visiting our room, giving us suggestions on how to set things up, watching to see how we would make food, and asking us how much we paid for each thing we brought home from the market (we usually paid too much, and they were sure to let us know!).  One day, to make sure we got a fair price, our landlady took us to the market to bargain for our wooden bed platform.  She drives a pretty hard bargain.  After we bought it, the bed was loaded on top of a cycle rickshaw, we sat on top of it with our landlady’s 10-year-old daughter, and the three of us rode down the main road all the way back to our community, like a slow-moving parade float in the midst of car, bus, and motorcycle traffic whizzing past us!  Slowly, we’re learning how much we should bargain things down in the market, how to knead dough for chapatti with the perfect ratio of water to flour, which spices to crush together for a meat dish.

We’re also getting to know the people who live around us, their families, and their stories.  Many of those stories involve loss, because sisters or daughters have died in childbirth, parents have died in the prime of life from disease, and family members have been injured in accidents or suffer from chronic health problems.  We are amazed by people’s resiliency as they deal with so much tragedy and death, and by the strength of the families here and their ability to care for the orphans, the elderly, and the otherwise vulnerable people among their relatives.  It’s not uncommon to see a single son supporting his mother and sisters, saving up his earnings to pay for their dowries one at a time, or a single mother taking a job as hired help in a rich family’s home to be able to keep sending her children to school.          Andy has spent a lot of time wandering around with the guys in our neighborhood, drinking chai and visiting their workplaces—most of which are recycling-collection stands or workshops where they make beautiful wooden furniture by hand.  I’ve spent a lot of time visiting women, many of whom are literally hidden away from the outside world because cultural tradition, a conservative mother-in-law, and/or fear of sexual harassment (a threat which has some basis in reality but which is also trumped up and used as a means of control) keep them from ever leaving the house.  We’ve both spent time visiting the families who live in crowded plastic and bamboo tents on the alley behind us, several feet lower and closer to the black river which surely expands during monsoon.  As we fill our water drum from the leaky hose in the morning, we watch women and children from that alleyway haul water back and forth by hand in small containers because there’s no morning hose service to their homes, and they’re too close to the sewage canal to dig a well.  And when we head over to our landlady’s back courtyard to use the toilet, we look over a low wall into that same alleyway where we know that there are no toilets at all.

There’s a custom in Indian culture that when guests are invited over for dinner, they eat first while the hosts watch.  The hosts actually don’t eat until after their guests leave.  When we first came to India, we found this an awkward and obnoxious arrangement, but the longer we’re here the more we come to appreciate it.  In our community, a dinner invitation from a poor family is a big gift to begin with.  Offering the guests food first—after you’ve already spent hours preparing it and are feeling hungry yourself—is sacrificial.  You’re making sure that the guests eat until they are full, even if it means that there may not be enough left for you and you may go hungry, and even though you’ve just spent a large percentage of your income on that meal.  In the past week and a half, we’ve already received this sacrificial gift many times over.  We still don’t feel comfortable being given food first, but it has challenged us to give to others more sacrificially than we are used to doing.

The more we learn, the more we realize there is to learn, and we feel honored to be welcomed into our neighbors’ world.  We feel humbled by how much more our neighbors have been able to offer us and to teach us in the past week and a half than we have been able to offer or to teach them.  Coming as outsiders with nothing, as yet, to contribute, we have no claim on their generosity and friendship, much less their patience with our own ignorance and unintended faux paux.  But if grace is undeserved favor, then our Muslim and Hindu neighbors are mediating our Father’s grace to us in abundance, and teaching us a lot about Him in the process.